Buzzing Around The World With Fellette & Doug

South Georgia

First, I would like to thank those of you that write or comment. It is always a surprise and treat to hear from friends and family.

Most people have never heard of South Georgia Island. I never knew of it until I read of Shackleton's adventure. It also was in the news around the Falklands War time, 1982.

Captain Cook claimed it for Britain. Sealers and whalers exploited it. The whaling station on South Georgia was established in 1904 by a Norwegian, hence the name of the port: Grytviken. The captain appears to be the only person who can pronounce it correctly. We all call it Cumberland Bay.

Over 175,000 whales were processed there before it being shut down in the 1960's. It is now a very important fisheries research station. The Brits strictly control who fishes what, where and when in a large area down here. It is about 800 miles from the Falkland Islands. Both those two and several other British possessions in the Southern Atlantic are still hotly contested by Argentina.

There are almost indescribable amounts of wildlife in the waters around South Georgia. Millions and millions of penguins and birds. Seals have made a strong comeback from being almost wiped out. Whales unfortunately, will likely never come back to former numbers.

There were very controlled walking tours of the town yesterday. Groups of about 30 were firmly "escorted" about. We explored the remains of the whaling station. It is in the process of being made visitable without hazards like crumbling buildings and wharfs, etc. Much effort and money has/is being spent to clean it up and make it an example of an environmentally friendly tourist attraction.

The research station that does most of it's work in their winter puts on different hats when exploration boats drop by. They open up the very sharp museum and post office, offer tours and run the shop. There are 13 involved in that research. Most were on the ship in the afternoon running the transplanted gift shop, post office and doing a presentation of their activities in the lounge.

Our ship was the largest that has dropped in there. I do believe they sold out their wares which they brought on board. It was amazing to see the amount of "stuff" that people were buying. The less there was, the more the panic buying took place. Prices were UK prices. In case you didn't know, that is expensive.

While ashore we strolled amongst the remains of the massive equipment needed to process the humungous amount of whales they did. The ground around the site is a veritable grave yard of whale bones, some little bits the size of a quarter, some too big to lift. Some areas of the ground itself seems polluted with pools of unidentifiable liquid goo. We were not allowed to take food ashore, nor even smoke. They treated the land like it was sacred and pristine, yet it is an absolute mess. Part of a change in attitude I assume.

There are large contraction trailers with tradesman from the UK, Australia and other parts renovating the site and making it into an attractive Antarctic Historic site. Lots of dollars being spent. There was a giant "Finning" diesel generator running that I assume supplies the power for everything there.

While walking up to the graveyard, that is extremely well kept, we had to tip toe around seals of various sizes and breeds. They were lounging like a bunch of massive slugs. From young pups to elephant seals weighing maybe 900 lbs. At one spot there was an "attack seal" that had a pup it was protecting. I was amazed that we were allowed so close to them. Like the penguins earlier, the only thing between you and touching them was common sense. Seals have very nasty mouths!

While buying postcards in the shop ashore I mentioned to the young lady clerk that she didn't have a UK accent. She said she was Canadian, guess where, Quesnel! She is going home shortly, but will likely return. It appears that those that are there want to be there. The winters must be something else.

Went onboard and had a hot tub with friend Jim.

Heading for warmer weather now.

Photos, Shackleton's Grave, King penguins, fur seal, hot tub.


One Man's opinion. E & O E

posted by Doug and Fellette @ 10:49 AM