Buzzing Around The World With Fellette & Doug

Alexandria, Egypt...

We were scheduled to dock at 6.00 am and an Egyptian Naval Band was to play dockside between 6:45 and 9. The reason for the earliness is that most of the passengers are off to Cairo and the pyramids today. Eight buses, and a 'spare.' Bus convoys are a bit of an adventure in Egypt. They are usually accompanied by armed escorts of some sort and get priority in traffic. It is a long, long 12 hour day for those souls going into Cairo today. The travel time each way is about 3 1/2 hours. [We have done it twice and are just going to explore Alexandria today.]

Something made me get up and look outside at 5:25 am. We were within 10 feet of the dock and below us was a line of buses that seemed to go on forever.

Lining up along the dock was our Navy Band. Within minutes the early morning silence was broken by the rousing sounds of inspiring Egyptian Naval renditions. Even without looking one could tell this was a different sort of martial band than we are used to. It has a mysterious eastern charm in it. Sort of a cross between a belly dance and snake charmers music. The coffee came 1/2 hour early today, the steward apologised but said that with so many people going off ship at seven they were very busy. Great, the band is directly below our balcony and sleep is out of the question.

Off the ship at 8.45, the band still playing. I went and thanked them using my best Egyptian sign language which they all understood. We took the third taxi driver who approached us, [by now we can tell the honest ones], his name was Mohammed, of course. Out the port gates, very nice.

Off to the Catacombs to beat the crowds. No photos there, sorry, Egyptian Rules. Built around 2000 years ago there are three levels of empty tomb chambers, Romans, Greeks and finally on bottom, Egyptian. A personally escorted tour of four, nice.

I used the facilities there before leaving. When I came out the group was eating fresh hot flat bread that a local had offered to Jim, Gail and Fellette. Fellette whispered "use your right hand!" I tried to remember which hand I had used to open the door in the toilet, but I think it was my left cuff! I had a small piece given to me by, I know not who, nor with which hand! Off we go to the Roman Ruins. Again we beat the crowds by minutes as a horde of Italians, I think, descended on the place just as Jim was reciting Hamlet to test the acoustics.

Next we ended up at our cab drivers cousin's shop, completely contrary to our specific instructions to take us to the library. We then gave very clear instructions to take us to the library. We ended up at Fort Quaitbey,

newly built on the suggested site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria built in the third century BC, on the opposite end of town from the library! This time we made it to the library, which is the most modern looking building in town. Cleopatra's 20,000 volume was destroyed forever hundreds and hundreds of years ago. It was a zoo at the site.

Our trusted driver dropped us of on the waterfront area, where we wanted to stroll.



We strolled around for some time, Doug had some photos developed to further decorate our mirror in the cabin, Jim got some formal wear. The shop was about 12 feet square with an owner and two women clerks in it. They had a great selection of vests and ties, etc. As the cruise goes on the men become bolder in their attempt to take a tuxedo to new levels of fashion, subtly trying to outdo one another and still look elegant.

Lunch time. Into a Sofitel Hotel, where a bus tour seems to have taken over the dining room. No problem, we are whisked up to the bar on the second floor over marble steps covered in plush carpet. The hotel is served by an elevator that I expected detective Clousseau to walk out of

The waiter sat us at a curved love seat and pulled over a chair and another round coffee table and spread a table cloth and presto, we could eat. We were somewhat awkward until Gail said, "we must remain flexible!" Right, a cool beer and soft drinks and then we realised we had the entire room to ourselves with the barman/waiter. Better service than the ship!

Next a stroll along the Corniche, the street that arcs along the harbour for miles. It is an absolutely beautiful setting and a great natural harbour.

On our strolls we were continually met by people, usually under 30 saying "hello, welcome to Egypt" or Alexandria. The three little girls in the balcony

called to us from above and then waved and giggled, not wanting us to move on. The man with his children asked to have his picture taken

then says thank you. People that we met are very happy and outgoing. Even the vendors are not as aggressive as I remember in Cairo.

As we were walking along, a group of young people walked past Fellette and I one of them said 'hello grandfather", I looked to see who she was talking to but I was the only candidate! [Gad, talk about deflated ego]. They then asked if they could video us! Certainly, next we have a cluster of three young Muslim girls nestled between Fellette and I being very animated. I then asked if I could take the photo of them.

To me, that was the best thing that happened to us all day long!

I was encouraged by the openness and friendliness of young and older people. It is encouraging because we have been to some rather sullen Muslim countries. It is interesting to people watch here. The young men all dress in somewhat drab darker clothes. The young girls are right up there in the fashion world with designer jeans, slacks, long jean skirts and fashionable tops. They wear sunglasses and cell phones have fashionable purses. They obviously wear the same foundation garments as young girls everywhere. They adhere to the head scarf for Muslims but they look absolutely striking with their attention to colours and matching outfits. They seem to spend time on their eye make-up, with black mascara. I am probably overstating the clothes, there is of course degrees of westernisation, and some look like they stepped out of a movie set for Ben Hur.

We had a great time photographing kids, and even adults asked to be photographed.


You can't beat a day with happy kids in it].

We then visited a Mosque that allows infidels in, no shoes and women with scarves use the back entrance and are behind a screened divider. Photos are allowed.

It seems odd to be inside with the call for prayer going on and believers on their knees on the biggest carpet in the world. Gail and Fellette were led to the female side by a completely covered woman in black berka who spoke perfect English. She had lived 25 years in California!


We eventually made it back to the ship in a horse and buggy, galloping through the streets, me with my video camera up front to the shouts of....."welcome to Egypt!"

What a day. We are not yet finished, now in place of the endless line of buses was an endless line of merchants with their tables of wares displayed. About 400 feet of them. Patiently waiting for customers. They were still there at 10.30 at night, waiting for the ship to sail. They did very well today, most of the crew got at least a chance to get off and get a souvenir or a $15.00 Rolex!

We had a Caesar salad in the cafeteria, and were in bed by 8.30, exhausted, we had been ashore for nine hours. The pursers office phoned at 10.30 asking for our passports back. The only people walking around the ship were passengers in housecoats clutching passports, like me!

Alexandria was a very pleasant surprise. Don't write it off! We added a stuffed camel to our growing menagerie of animals in the cabin.

A day to rest and then, next stop Turkey.

posted by Doug and Fellette @ 6:35 AM