Buzzing Around The World With Fellette & Doug

Goodbye India...

After a very exciting and surprisingly delightful first day in Bombay we were ready to go ashore again. This time we were off to Elephanta Island and the 'Caves' that seem to be one of the major tourist attractions here.

Again we walked out the port gates and faced the hordes of cabbies. Fifteen minutes later we are at The Taj Hotel and walked across the street to The Gateway to buy the boat tickets for the 45 minute ride to the Island. There is a sea fog or haze that makes the visibility maybe two miles at the most.

There is a mixed bag of passengers on the two-decker boat.

Locals, Asian visitors and a few from the ship making the journey independently, like us. Upon arrival there is a 200 yard walk to the base of the stairs that go up to the caves. A miniature train shuttle takes most of the passengers, we walk, we can use the exercise.

There are something like 120 odd steps up to the caves that were carved out of solid basalt rock about 1400-1500 years ago. The steps are more a plateau than steps. For a modest sum you can be carried up in a wooden lawn chair strapped to two poles. A sedan chair type of thing. Many of the Asians chose this, as did many others. As usual we four walked up. Along the way there are merchants very patiently waiting for you eyes to fall on a particular item and then starts the interchange.

The vendors are not too annoying, we have met worse. It is a bit bothersome, however, that if you have a genuine interest in something, you cannot consider it in peace. They seem to have to be glued at the hip to you. There are some very interesting stone and wooden pieces that we have not seen before. The quantity and variation of necklaces seems endless. The prices are very low by our standards but how many do you need?

At the top there is a complimentary govt. guide that will, if you like, take you into the cavern and explain each and every panel. Also at the top are Indian ladies that look colourful with their empty pots on their heads, $1.00 a photo!

There are about nine panels, each about 14 x 14 feet. gods, animals, men, women, monkeys, etc. Please forgive my inaccurate and vague description of these caves. They may be of interest to others but not to me, it was merely an outing.



The other three in the party had a drink and an 'Indian Vegitarian Pizza' at an open air restaurant up there. I only had a soda, I figured that one of us had to remain healthy in case my companions suddenly doubled over with stomach cramps. The boat ride back seemed twice as long as the journey over. We soon found ourselves at the Gateway and Taj Hotel

and worked our way into the streets, miraculously ending in MacDonalds for another well deserved milkshake, my second of the year.

Surprisingly, MacDonalds only has a hand wash station but no toilet. I made my way to the facility just outside the second floor we were on. Gadzooks, it was like going back into 18th century India. Cement floors, all wet with something. I held my breath and used what I think was the appropriate vessel for my light work I had to do there. A water tap worked but what next, how do I get out without touching anything? My mother would have been proud of me! I then used the hand wash facility in MacDonalds wondering if anybody would notice if I cleaned the soles of my runners in the basin. I thought otherwise.

Back for a wander down the stalls and then a cab to the ship. Sanctuary and air conditioning. We removed our shoes in the hall before entering our cabin, Fellette muttering under her breath. I then washed the shoes and dried and aired them on the outside deck. To bed early that night.

That night, I awoke with a tight throat, a cough candy and water solved the problem but the cabin smells like Bombay harbour, why wouldn't it? Others also had respiratory problems while in Bombay. Up early to send my mail but the wireless in not working, still. I persuade Fellette to get dressed and accompany me to the terminal with every possible computer wire and cable we had, taking the electrical adapters as well, my battery is rapidly fading.

We went up to the Internet room, on the second floor of the terminal building, the opening of the door was slightly difficult because of the Indian gentleman sleeping on the floor inside the room. We are not deterred. Within minutes we are set up, wired and adapted and on-line. We did our mail thing, checked the bank and visa to see that we were not being scammed. All was good. We received some good news about my sister-in-laws fight with cancer. On our way out 1/2 hour later we were careful to gingerly step over our friend. Internet cost $2.00 per hour. Back to the ship for breakfast.

Off again to find 'Crawford Market,' our cabbie, when enroute, told us that Crawford didn't open until 11. Several attempts by the cabbie to hijack us on a sightseeing tour was to no avail. We were dropped off around 9.30 as the shops were beginning to get ready for 10 am opening. However we were soon in the hands of another Indian gentleman who squired us to the local wholesale market for fruits, vegetables, spices, birds, dogs and meat. [Lamb.] This man hailed another man who for 20 rupees [50c] would escort us through the maze of stalls and buildings. He did point out an ancient official looking sign that in essence said, no dogs, no spitting, and visitors must be escorted by an official guide.

It was the best 40 rupees we spent in Bombay. Inside was a delight. Pleasant smells in the fruit and vegetable sections at least.



Jim and I went into the meat cutting building where the smell actually turned my stomach over. Our guide waited with the girls outside as Jim and I went in. I don't think that this place is swilled out at night. There were crows in there perched in the beams and the floor was covered in bird droppings. The rats looked healthy enough though.

I suppose the 'meat' on the pizza the day before was processed there. I felt vindicated for not eating at Elephanta. Other than the meat and poultry sections it was surprisingly clean. The locals in there are very obliging and happy to see you, smiling and posing for pictures.

Gaggles of kids in the street meet you regularly on your walks, usually more in the touristy areas.

Back to the streets, looking for a formal shirt for Jim. [His purchase two days ago of a smart formal Nehru-collar shirt was handed down to Doug because it was too small for Jim.] We went into numerous shops, all very interesting but to no avail. During this wandering we just enjoyed being part of the everyday hustle-bustle of Bombay.

Gail gave in first, she suggested we grab a cab and head for the Taj Hotel for a soft drink. We had our sumptuous Grande finale lunch there, Curry for Jim and I, something more modest for the girls. The curry required two beers and yogurt to tame the fire. It was time for a last ramble, and then back to the ship for a rest and clean up before the formal night for St. Patrick's Day. Bah, humbug.

The clocks were set BACK 1/2 hour as we start the westward journey back to, dare I say, home? Goodbye India, we four all have a somewhat changed opinion of India as a result of the last five days, for the better!

Two days at sea then Salalah, Oman. On the bottom right of what we used to call the Arabian Peninsula, maybe they still do.

posted by Doug and Fellette @ 6:54 AM