Buzzing Around The World With Fellette & Doug

Part 2: Three days in Kenya...

Part two of a three part series.

After breakfast we left Voi Wildlife Lodge, and the insects and back into the park for the three hour drive to the gate out. We were not expecting much after the great rush we got from the Buffalo herd before breakfast, our adrenaline had run out and we were expecting a leisurely drive out.

It was another exciting game spotting adventure. Amongst the highlights was a display of "necking" by two male adult giraffes. This is a ritual of dominance, it was fascinating to watch these two giants as they duelled with their necks. It was very ritualistic and almost in slow motion. Fellette said it was like watching Tai Chi. Giraffes can seriously injure their necks reducing them to cripples for the rest of their lives. It would be like us having to live with a dislocated vertebrae.

Throughout the drive there was always something of interest just around the corner. The male buffalo pictured was virtually in front of us as we rounded a curve.

Both the animal and us were well out of our comfort zone when we stopped, the photo was taken without a zoom. After a minute or two, as we stood motionless, he got up, looked at us and ambled off. The Cape Buffalo is an extremely dangerous animal, even the driver was a bit concerned about the closeness.

Soon we came across some elephants about 1/4 mile away. First there were a few, then as our eyes scanned from left to right there were more, then more and more. All slowly working their way along in five separate groups. Our driver slowly moved us along the dirt road towards the end of them, we travelled for over a mile before we came to the end of the column. There was a smaller group on the other side of the road as well. We have no idea of the quantity except they numbered well over 100. Elephants are magnificent to see, they are very intelligent and family oriented, any herd is run by a large female, known as the Matriarch. The herd will usually consist of females and young males. When the males become mature they leave the herd and hang out with the boys.

The driver was made aware of some lions ahead, the drivers stop and chat in Swahili occasionally so they pass on interesting bits and pieces between themselves. They are usually very careful about getting our hopes up too much about what we may see. Animals can come and go in the wink of an eye. A lot of game viewing is luck. However several sets of eyes on the lookout certainly helps.

We had seen lions the day before but that really didn't count. I had spotted some movement as we were cruising down a track and asked the driver to stop. My heart was pounding because I thought it was a large female but could not tell from the moving van. Soon with four pairs of binoculars at work we counted six lions. Everybody saw the original one before she laid down again about 150 meters from the road. After that we counted ears and divided by two. They often rest in grass of the right height so that they are basically invisible until they raise their head to see over the grass. Later that day when returning to the lodge there were about 12 safari vans stopped by "our" lions, we all figured they had moved closer or were more visible. No, there were still only 12 ears. That is all some people may see and be very thrilled about it.

Eventually we came to the lions in question. There were two fully grown animals cuddling under a bush about 15 feet from the road, nicely blended in to the colour of the grass and dry bush.

After we got to take a close look, nobody could tell if they were two females or one was a male. Apparently, our guide told us, the males do not grow manes in Tsavo [?] [See photo.]

At 1 PM we were out of the park and on blacktop again, heading for Shimba Hills. A quick stop for a drink, and off we go. After all those rough roads and dirt tracks we were now on a first class road. That is when the tire decided to blow.

We thought we were in for another adventure but our man had all the tools and technique to have us on the road again in under 10 minutes.

We had asked Dickson earlier if we could take another route to Shimba rather than go back through that 50 Ks of creek bed we had travelled on the day before and then have to go through the mess in Mombasa. He knew of a route but wasn't sure if it was passable. He checked with other drivers and some knew of it so he decided he could make it through because it was dry.

He turned off the blacktop and down a dirt road. For the next three hours we were treated to the real rural Africa.

We went through villages and settlements the likes of which we have never seen.

There was not one road sign, directional sign or sign post the entire three hours.

Nor any paved road. It was absolutely thrilling to see this remote part of the world.

We took many photos of buildings and kids and structures as we bumped along.

We told Dickson to forget about getting to Shimba for a late lunch, this was too good to rush through.

During those hours on the bumpy roads we never once felt any concern for our safety. We did spend much time discussing the life style of the people in these remoter areas. Apparently life in the country is vastly different from life in the city. The same as at home of course. However the level of poverty is hard to distinguish between city and country. In the city we can discount the European style homes and apartments that only the very rich, diplomats and corrupt government people live in. Everybody else looks dirt poor. The country folks are happier, just as clean and may have nothing, but apparently whatever one has is for the other to use. We were amazed at what we thought were abandoned buildings turn out to be homes and shops and stores for the locals.

We told the driver that we wanted to take some pictures, discreetly, of some buildings. Next thing we know we are stopped at a building with scores of young people about.

Of course we are immediately the focus of attention of all of them. The boldest approach the car to a safe distance of about 30 feet. Jim starts motioning that he is going to take a picture, some turn away, others pose.

Snap, snap and we hand out our camera and motion them to come and see the photos. Some brave few step forward, point and laugh. I took a shot of them close up, then showed it to them.

You had thought that they had heard the joke of the century.

When we got underway again the driver said that no cars with whites in them ever stop on this route. I don't want to stretch the truth but some of those kids had never been as close to a white man as we were then. The driver also said that they rarely if ever get out of that area and had absolutely no idea or could care less where Nairobi or Mombasa was.

A quick note. If you ever come to Kenya, or East Africa take at least 500 simple ball-point stick pens with you. We have come with as many as a thousand to give to kids, teachers and schools. I heard a man ask for a pen because he is a teacher! My heart goes out to the kids trying to get out of this poverty and all that stops them are simple things like a pen. Also reading glasses. We passed a "Charitable Eye Centre" yesterday, where amongst other things they try to connect used glasses to people who need them. Imagine your kids at school and they cannot see correctly. How many times yesterday could we have made a kids life a little better for lack of pens.

We eventually came to a fairly large village that had a market.

Pretty tough situation I tell you. Very, very poor and basic. I really only thought that Somalia, Darfur and other war torn countries cold look that poor. The driver verified that we were still on the correct road and pushed on. Soon we saw our first directional sign in three hours "Elephant Sanctuary". Civilisation was near, next we were at a filling station in a town that I would not classify as friendly. Again many Muslims, one Masai and scores of people trying to survive by whatever means. A women appeared with a bag for our driver. It was his wife with a change of clothes, his binoculars and guide books. She came down from Mombasa on the bus and Ferry which would be about a three hour journey for her on public transportation. We snapped a few clandestine photos and then off to Shimba Hills Lodge.

A cool glass of juice and a welcome chat, and we were shown to our basic room. Two twin beds with mosquito nets, a ledge for whatever and four towels, four hooks for clothes and a thermos of water. Wonderful, a good sign, no holes in the mosquito net and two nice fresh pillows each. We all had showers, I had a cold Tusker brought up and we were ready to explore the lodge.

Not much to explore, there are rooms for 64 people in 32 rooms. There are three communal wash and shower rooms just down the hall.

I asked for some ice to chill the wine we had carried with us, [Cape Town $4.00], I received seven ice cubes, I asked for more, I received four more! Don't ask how but I chilled the bottle down and the four of us walked out to the end of the elevated walkway and had a great secluded pre-dinner drink with a tin of Madagascar Pate from Jim's pack and a package of Kenya crackers from Fellette's pack. Two Swiss army knives and sit back and reflect upon the last few hours and the last two days. Wow!

We were soon visited by a staff member who very quietly asked if everything was fine. Yes, how could it not be fine. He told us what time to come for dinner. I then asked him how many guests at the lodge tonight. "Just you four" he said. Does it get any better?

We were treated to a bush baby or two [small nocturnal animals], before dinner, plus a view of a resident Genet cat that they feed. Because of the empty rooms the driver and his wife were staying at the lodge that night so we asked the staff if we could all sit together.

Jim sprung for the wine and we had a very interesting and stimulating cross-cultural discussion. I am not sure who learned more, them or us.

To bed for a great bug-free evening with the sounds of the frogs in the water hole lulling us to sleep. Yes, folks, that was the way it really was.

posted by Doug and Fellette @ 7:24 PM